Cat: A Great Pet For Family

Anyone wanting a new kitten should be a cat lover. Let’s face it, folks, cats are just different from dogs. Cats do not usually perform any special tricks, and they certainly do not guard your possessions while you are away. In fact, the only thing you can be guaranteed of by having a cat is that a mouse won’t last long if they creep into your home.

Cats are loved by many because of their independence. Cats have a life, so to speak. Most cats do not follow you around the home with their tongues hanging out of their mouths waiting on your attention. While they do love their owners fiercely, cats will not grovel like a dog and worship and fawn over their owners. Cats are perfectly content simply being themselves--and they do not seem to need constant reassurance, unlike canines.

This does not mean cats do not need love and affection, it simply means cats are not “fragile” characters. In fact, cats exude a self assurance which can often be misunderstood as aloofness or coldness. Yet, cats are far from aloof or unfeeling. They feel deeply and love deeply. If a cat comes to sit on your lap, you know you are truly loved.

Anytime the family thinks about bringing a new pet into the home, it is exciting. Cats are a favorite of many because as kittens they are so entertaining to watch. Cats have a mind all of their own and only a true cat lover can even claim to understand the psyche of a feline. Cats are mysterious animals, which is part of the draw to them. While cats have been brought into the home, their instincts still remain. Cats adopt their owners and will even go out and provide “dinner.” Many cat owners have stepped out on the stoop to find a dead mouse, opossum, or mole waiting for them. Now, that is love and loyalty!

If you are planning to bring a cat into your home, you should look at it as a life long commitment. Cats can live fifteen years and beyond. You should also understand that as cats mature, they will often sleep and laze around the home. If you are wanting a cat to entertain you throughout her life, you should seriously think about whether a cat is the pet for you. Kittens are very entertaining and young cats are always curious and open for a challenge. However, older cats aren’t easily excitable and usually prefer to watch the antics in the home from a distance.

When you have made the decision to bring a new cat into your home, you will have to decide between a domestic or purebred cat. If you choose to go with a purebred cat, you can be guaranteed of size and appearance, and possibly temperament. There are more than 40 breeds to choose from, so do your homework. You will want to research the grooming requirements of the breed you are considering, along with the general disposition of the breed.

Domestic cats come in all colors and shapes. When you look at any cat, there are some things you should consider. For instance, while all cats are fairly in proportion to each other, there are some cats which are more lanky and lean than others. These cats will be the ones who may be more interested in running and exploration. The chunkier, heavier cat will probably be more laid back and not get into too big a hurry about anything. You have a choice between a domestic long hair or domestic short hair cat.

When picking out your kitten, you should understand that kittens should not have an odor. While puppies do tend to have a smell about them, kittens do not. You should observe the entire litter of kittens. Do any of them have crusty eyes or a runny nose? If so, you may want to reconsider choosing a kitten from that litter. You certainly shouldn’t take one home simply because you feel sorry for it, either. Especially if you have other pets in your home. All of the kittens should have bright and clear eyes and be very alert.

You should handle the kittens. Their fur should be soft and silky, and never stiff or dry. Likewise, their coat should not feel oily or greasy. When you are petting the kitten, you should run your hands along her skin to ensure she has no sores. When you are holding each kitten, place them up to your face and nuzzle them. Listen for any breathing noises. You should not hear any raspy or breathy breathing. If you do, this is possibly a signal that the kitten has a respitory infection.

After visiting with the kittens, instinct will usually dictate to you which kitten is your match. You may feel the rowdy, rambunctious kitten will fit the best into your lively home. Or, you may decide the laid back kitten is more your speed, especially if you have a quiet home. Once you have made your decision and chosen your kitten, you should have a kennel waiting for travel. You should never try to ride in a car with a cat unless they are restrained or in a kennel. While most dogs love car rides, cats tend to scare. They can cower under your feet and this can lead to a wreck.

When you bring your new kitten into your home, you should immediately show her where the litter box, food and water are located. You should also have a supply of cat toys on hand to distract the cat from missing her mom and litter mates. While this cannot entirely be avoided, lavishing attention on a new kitten will do wonders in the transition to her new family.

You should expect your new kitten to explore every nook and cranny in the home. This is a necessary part of a kitten’s disposition. (Even older cats seem to perk up when a new piece of furniture is brought into a home they have lived in for years.) You will want to kitten proof your home. You should keep the lids down on the toilet, and you may want to remove potted plants and the like until your cat learns the rules.

Cats are social creatures, and they can learn the rules of their new environment with consistency. While you may think they do not understand what you are saying, this is not true. If you have a new kitten who wants to walk across the kitchen counter or dining room table, simply rattling a newspaper at her and saying “down” will teach her to stay off. With time you will be able to put the newspaper away and simply speak the command.

Cat And Dog Can Be A Good Friend

There is an ordinary misconception among some pet owners that dogs and cats cannot co-live together within a house. While there are some breeds of dogs that do not openly cooperate well with other pets most breeds of dogs can be socialized to cooperate appropriately with cats and live together in a house. The way that the two species are introduced to one another as well as the age of both the dog and cat are key. In addition the pets past chronicle with the other species genuinely makes a difference as well.

Puppies and cats

If you are considering bringing home a new puppy and you presently have cats there are some steps that you can do to bestow the best potential first encounter.

· Keep the puppy undo from the cats for the first the existence.

· Allow the cats to smell the blankets that the puppy has slept on and junior versa.

· Hold the puppy and permit the cats to smell him or her without the puppy being able to move towards the cats. This is best done if the puppy is seized firmly on the bewilder or on a lap.

· Once they have had a destiny to see one another when the puppy is under hegemony respect allowing the puppy to saunter around the area with the cats.

· The cats should not be detained; rather they should be allowed to move away from the puppy when they want.

· If the puppy barks or attempts to follow the cats exact the puppy with a lively “No” and give them an appropriate toy to play with. Soon the puppy will achieve that they are to chew on the toy, not try to follow the cats.

· Supervise all interactions between the cat and puppy awaiting you are certain that they are well socialized. This may take some weeks depending on the comfort flat of the cat and the quantity of the puppy.

Remember the younger the route starts the easier it will be. Keep in bewared that some breeds are genuinely more aggressive, particularly terriers and other hunting breeds such as Akitas, Dobermans, Rottweilers and hound varieties. Some of the lesser and toy dogs are also not well matched to interact with cats, so research the breed and speech to tide owners and breeders before you take.

Dogs and cats

If you are considering a mature dog from a rescue or secret home be effective to ask if they get along with cats. Most mature dogs that have been suitably socialized with cats will get along with all cats after a first “get to know one another” stage. Often this is relatively abrupt, lasting only a pair of days. Some mature dogs do very will with cats in the house but will immediately hunt the same cat if they are past. Carefully monitoring the dog and cat for the first few days is key for the safety and refuge for the cat and dog.

If you are not positive if the dog is socialized with cats fake that they are not, especially for large breeds of dogs or hunting variety dogs counting terriers. Keep the dog and the cat dispersed and only try to begin them if the dog is on a very succinct bridle and you have another adult there to work with the cat.

Often mature dogs will not interact well with cats but may use an attitude of ignoring the cat. This may be acceptable but does not mean that the dog may not become aggressive towards the cat under certain conditions. Consider enclosure education or custody your dog in a kennel or secede span when you are not able to supervise to thwart any fighting between the two species.

Most breeds of dogs do well with cats, especially when they are introduced gradually and at a youthful age. Proper socialization with other species will make your dog more accepting of all sorts of animals and will reduce their aggression towards others.

Feral Cats In North America

Cats are not natives to North America. From their humble beginnings into domestication in Egypt around, or about 5000BC, cats have slowly moved from continent to continent. In Europe, they were not very well accepted and regularly trapped a killed pending the plagues in the Dark Ages. With their superb hunting skills, they were very valuable lowering the rodent population and thus gained acceptance.

From Europe, the cats came with the new settlers. Often, cats were approved on the ships to combat the rodent quandary and they would regularly leak when the transport was docked. In North America, it is estimated that the cat population is over 65 million.

Cats tend to have a released ranging guts regularly roving a few balance miles as their home territory from their home. These domestic cats that are boundless roaming are not native to the North American network. On utterly the chance, some of these cats will not send home or would be abandoned and become normal cats.

Between the untamed cats and the free roaming cats, they have a shock on the system where they live. Often, this becomes a crisis for the plants that live in the section. The cats' prey may already be under stress or their numbers may be low. If there is overabundance of untamed cats in the territory, there can be devastating effects.

In some areas, the Galapagos Islands for example, wildlife managers have had to develop an extermination series to restore certain islands to the expected network. This is a subject that not only were the cats not native to the subject but there was no significant being population for the cats to have just wandered away from. The occurrence of these cats suitable feral cats came about from cats that were itinerant on business ships escaping while the dispatch was at the island resupplying food or water assets.

In North America, the spot is often not that awful. If you reason to people that live in rural areas that have a lot of cats, they would block you with stories of how this cat or that cat showed up at their door as a newly natural kitten in the focus of the night. Often, the observe goes back to city-folk falling off their kittens that momma cat had and they didn't want. They just think that the cat belongs in the country and if they decrease it off near the manor, the planter will take it in and it can stalk mice and rats thereby earning its keep.

This adds an additional detriment to the farmer and more often than not, these cats will not entertain medical caution and inferior, they will mate and imitate until there are too many to precision for. Let me paint a stunning picture from a farmer I knew. He commented: "when the number of cats and kittens gets to be too many, I would just harvest up some of the ultra kittens, put them in a burlap sack, tie it lock and flummox it in the lake. After they are flat, I would injure the bag out of the water and conceal it in the ground."

There are alternatives. If you took the cats to the veterinarian, you could have them spayed or neutered. There is a detriment elaborate with this and unfortunately has been a hitch with the rural landlady in this unnatural adoption spot. As we are fitting more sensitive, there more sterilize and neuter clinics impending to assistance and some of these programs are conducting notice and release programs.

Although cats are not native to North America, they are natural in our homes and they are here to visit. The catches is when the cats cause our homes and become feral cats. We don't copious understand the influence that they have on the ecology and there support groups to shelter them from "Wildlife Management operations." There are clear answers and not so apparent answers. The liquid will never be cut and dry here in North America.

Pet Rabbit Housing

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit cages, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny.

How Big

As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.

Cage Design

As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

If you are handy, you can get fairly creative and construct your own cage. This allows a custom size to be designed. My own rabbit has a home made cage that is not ideal but works fairly well.

Bedding/Litter

Grass/sisal mats are a good idea for solid foored cages, too, to provide traction. Fleece blankets can also be provided. Pieces of carpet or towels also make nice mats, as long as your rabbit is not unravelling and eating them.

As for other pets, cedar and pine shavings should be avoided due to concerns over the aromatic oils they release. These oils have been shown to elevate the levels of some liver enzymes, which can affect the metabolism of drugs and other compounds. If wood shavings are used at all, better alternatives include hardwood shavings such as aspen. Straw or hay is a good bedding material for rabbits. For choices for the litter box, see the section on litter training.

Outdoors/Hutches

While living alone in a hutch outdoors is a lonely existence for a rabbit, a house rabbit that is allowed time outdoors will likely enjoy the change of scenery and fresh air. There are several dangers in the outdoors, including predators, weather, and toxicity from herbicides, pesticides or poisonous plants. Since predators present the largest danger at night, keeping a rabbit outdoors in a hutch at night is risky, even in a city (where predators may include raccoons, cats, dogs, coyotes, hawks and more). Many of these can injure or kill a rabbit without even getting into the cage. If a rabbit is to stay outside, it should at least be in an enclosed shed, garage, or some shelter that allows complete protection.

Many owners allow their rabbits outside in an enclosed pen made form a wood frame with wire on all sides (including top and bottom). This allows bunnies to spend time outside and munch on the grass (provided it is not treated with any herbicides, pesticides or other chemicals!) without burrowing out, and with protection from unwanted visitors. Shelter from sun, wind, rain, and other elements must also be provided.

Keeping Rabbits Outdoors

Rabbits have been popular pets for centuries, and they live on average to 5 years old (though we have heard of a few reaching 9 years old..and still going!) Rabbits are usually very docile but, if cornered, frightened or frustrated, can be nervous and will bite or 'attack' you by scrabbling with their front paws.

Rabbits are lagomorphs and that means that their teeth are constantly growing. They require plenty of hard food to chew to keep their teeth worn down. Complete rabbit dry foods are good, but should not be the sole diet.

Rabbits should have good hay and fresh water available all the time. Very small amounts of cabbage or carrot can be fed as treats.

Any new food should be introduced slowly and not fed to excess as it may cause diarrhoea until the rabbit is used to it. This especially refers to young rabbits that have either just left their mother or their litter brothers and sisters, as this is a traumatic time for them anyway.

Additional wood, or branches from apple or pear trees or proprietary nibbling treats are useful to wear the teeth down. If the teeth get overgrown they can be cut or removed by operation by a veterinary surgeon.

NOTE: If your rabbit does suffer from diarrhoea, feed it strawberry leaves. NEVER feed a rabbit lettuce.

Accommodation

Unless they are (same sex) litter mates, or a neutered buck with a doe, rabbits are best kept singly. If kept in a hutch, the hutch must be at least 4ft long and 18" deep and have a private nest compartment. If the hutch is outdoors it should be adequately felted to prevent draughts and dampness. It should be sheltered, and ideally placed in a garden shed over winter. The bedding material should be absorbent e.g. pet bedding*, straw or hay. The seeds should be shaken out of the hay and straw to prevent them getting in the rabbits eyes.

Although woodshavings are the popular choice for pet shops and breeders, we either use a paper based cat litter such as biocatolet or carefresh supreme. In our experience, in some cases, woodshavings / sawdust can cause respiratory problems which can kill.

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General Care

Long coated rabbits must be groomed daily. All rabbits should have their teeth and nails checked for overgrowth. Some rabbits get soiled around the vent (bottom) area, this is very often caused by the rabbit being overweight, (one large handful of food is sufficient for an average size rabbit).

This is particularly dangerous in summer as flies will lay their eggs in the coat leading to maggot infestation (flystrike), which can be FATAL. All rabbits should be checked daily in the summer and kept very clean.

Vaccination is available for two fatal diseases, myxomatosis and VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease). Vaccinations can be done from 8 weeks of age and are boosted annually. In a high risk area (e.g. with wild rabbits around) boosters should be every six months. Your vet will be able to advise you on this.

Vaccination is important, it is the only way to protect your rabbit and prevent further spread of disease. VHD symptoms vary from loss of appetite to sudden death. Rabbits develop breathing difficulties, convulsions, in coordination, and often a bloodstained nasal discharge. It is very distressing and happens very quickly. All breeds of rabbit can be affected including pet, show and wild rabbits. This year VHD has killed 10 times more rabbits than it did last year. The virus is present in the saliva and nasal secretions of rabbits, and it can be spread by direct contact with rabbits or carried on people, clothing, objects, birds and other animals.

Myxomatosis is spread by fleas and mosquitoes and is a horrible disease. Symptoms include puffy fluid swellings around the head and face. 'Sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips and ears and genitalia. It is fatal. As well as vaccination, flea control is important in prevention.

Wild Food and Feeding for Rabbits.

Wild Plants: Feed
Avens or Geum, Argrimony, Bramble, Bindweed, Bishop's Weed or Ground Elder, Burnet, Butterbur, Cow Parsnip or Hogweed, Clovers, Coltsfoot, Convolvulus, Chickweed, Goosegrass, Crosewort or Maywort, Dandelion, Dock (before seeding), Groundsell, Goutweed, Hawkweed, Heather, Hedgeparsley, Knapweed, Knotgrass, Lucerne, Mallow, Mustard, Nipplewort, Plaintain, Sea Spinach, Shepards Purse, Sour Dock or Sorrel, Thistles, Trefoil, Vetches or Tares, Watercress, Yarrow.

Wild Plants: Avoid
Arum, Anemone, Black Nightshade, Bluebells, Buttercup, Bryony, Colchicums, (Meadow Saffron), Corn Cockle, Celandine, Deadly Nightshade, Docks (in seed), Dog Mercurry, Figwort, Foxglove, Iris, Fools Parsley, Ground Ivy, Hemlock, Henbane, Poppies, Scarlet Pimpernal, Spurges, Toadflax, Travellers Joy.

Cultivated Vegetables and Roots: Feed
Artichokes, Jerusalem (Leaves and Roots), Beetroot, Brussels Sprouts, Beans and Haulms (Not Scarlet Runners), Chicory, Cauliflower, Carrots, Cabbage, Celery, Clover, Dandelion, Fodder Beet, Horse Radish, Kale's, Kohl-Rabi, Lucerne, Maize Mangolds (after 25th December), Parsley, Parsnips, Strawberry, Swedes, Sainfoin, Savoys, Spinich, Sunflowers.

Cultivated Vegetables and Roots: Avoid
Mangold Tops, Mangold Roots (before December), Tomato Leaves, Potato Tops, Lettuce.
Flowers: Feed, Asters, Borage, Calendula, Centaurea, Daisies, Galega, Geranium, Geum, Helenium, Hollyhock, Honesty, Lupins (not seeds), Marguerites, Marigolds, Michaelmas Daisies, Nasturtium, Rose, Stocks, Sunflowers, Wallflowers.

Flowers: Avoid
Acacia, Aconite, Antirrhinum, Arum, Anemone, Columbine, Daffodil, Dahlia, Delphinium, Feverfew, Gyposphilla, Helleborus, Hyacinth, Iris, Larkspur, Lilly of the Valley, Linarias, Lobelia, Love-in-a-mist, Monkswood, Poppies, Snowdrop, Tulips.

Trees and Shrubs: Feed
Practically all Deciduous trees,(Except very fresh growth of young trees and twigs), Blackberry, Rose, Raspberry Canes and Winter Ivy.

Trees and Shrubs: Avoid
Most Evergreen trees and Shrubs, Acacia, Box Elder, Beech Mast, Gorse Seeds, Laburnam, Oak, Snowberry, Plum, Ivy, (Except in Winter when no berries or flowers).

NOTE: BEFORE FEEDING YOUR RABBITS WITH ANY WILD PLANTS MAKE SURE THEY HAVE NOT BEEN CONTAMINATED BY PESTICIDES.

©This information sheet was donated by CavyRescue, the UK’s first and only dedicated small mammal rescue charity. Originally set up to rescue guinea pigs, rabbit and hamsters, they found that there were few other rescues who took in rats and are now also sometimes known as 'recycle a rodent'. They are highly dependent on donations, if you would like to help please visit www.cavyrescue.co.uk

Caring For Your First Rabbit

Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets for first time pet owners. In fact, many domestic rabbits are meant to be kept indoors. Domestic rabbits are not like their wild cousins; they do not fair well in extreme temperatures. They also do not react well to predators. Domestic rabbits are very attentive and affectionate. They care about their owners and are very social. Domestic rabbits are meant to be played with and loved by the entire family.

The choice of whether you keep your rabbit in a cage or allow him to roam freely is up to you. If you do opt to keep your rabbit in a cage, you should make sure that he is allowed to get out of his cage every day so he can exercise. When purchasing a cage for your rabbit, you should take into account how big he will be when he is mature and purchase a cage that is five times that size. Your rabbit's cage should be big enough for him to sit up on his hind legs. You should also put cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood in the bottom of wire cages to protect his paws from the wire.

If you decide to allow your pet to roam, make sure that your home is safe. Rabbits like to chew and they don't know the difference between an electrical cord and a stick. Most rabbit owners that do allow their pets to roam limit their wandering to specific areas.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only eat fruits, vegetables and grasses in the wild. You should keep a bowl of commercial rabbit food in your pets eating area. However, you should feed your rabbit hay every day, as well. Many rabbit owners also feed their pets a few fruits and vegetables, such as a carrot or a bit of apple. Always provide something hard and crunchy for your rabbit to gnaw on. This will keep his teeth from becoming overgrown. You should also make sure your rabbit has access to water and that it is changed every day.

Many domesticated rabbits become accustomed to be handled and even enjoy being held. However, you should always use both hands when picking up your rabbit. Place one hand under his chest and the other around his rump. You should never lift your rabbit by his ears.

Rabbits keep themselves clean. However, you should brush rabbits that have long hair regularly to keep their fur from matting. You should trim your rabbit's nails every six weeks. Also, check your bunny's teeth when you trim his nails to be sure they are wearing evenly. If a rabbit's teeth don't meet evenly, they may grow too long and curl, preventing him from eating. If his teeth are growing too long, you will need to ask your vet to trim them on a regular basis.

Rabbits do not need to go to the vet for vaccinations, but will benefit from a yearly checkup, just like any other pet. You should also take your rabbit to the vet if he has hair loss, loss of appetite, a runny nose, has difficulty breathing or has any swelling or lumps on his body.

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