Pet Rabbit Housing

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit cages, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny.

How Big

As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.

Cage Design

As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

If you are handy, you can get fairly creative and construct your own cage. This allows a custom size to be designed. My own rabbit has a home made cage that is not ideal but works fairly well.

Bedding/Litter

Grass/sisal mats are a good idea for solid foored cages, too, to provide traction. Fleece blankets can also be provided. Pieces of carpet or towels also make nice mats, as long as your rabbit is not unravelling and eating them.

As for other pets, cedar and pine shavings should be avoided due to concerns over the aromatic oils they release. These oils have been shown to elevate the levels of some liver enzymes, which can affect the metabolism of drugs and other compounds. If wood shavings are used at all, better alternatives include hardwood shavings such as aspen. Straw or hay is a good bedding material for rabbits. For choices for the litter box, see the section on litter training.

Outdoors/Hutches

While living alone in a hutch outdoors is a lonely existence for a rabbit, a house rabbit that is allowed time outdoors will likely enjoy the change of scenery and fresh air. There are several dangers in the outdoors, including predators, weather, and toxicity from herbicides, pesticides or poisonous plants. Since predators present the largest danger at night, keeping a rabbit outdoors in a hutch at night is risky, even in a city (where predators may include raccoons, cats, dogs, coyotes, hawks and more). Many of these can injure or kill a rabbit without even getting into the cage. If a rabbit is to stay outside, it should at least be in an enclosed shed, garage, or some shelter that allows complete protection.

Many owners allow their rabbits outside in an enclosed pen made form a wood frame with wire on all sides (including top and bottom). This allows bunnies to spend time outside and munch on the grass (provided it is not treated with any herbicides, pesticides or other chemicals!) without burrowing out, and with protection from unwanted visitors. Shelter from sun, wind, rain, and other elements must also be provided.

Keeping Rabbits Outdoors

Rabbits have been popular pets for centuries, and they live on average to 5 years old (though we have heard of a few reaching 9 years old..and still going!) Rabbits are usually very docile but, if cornered, frightened or frustrated, can be nervous and will bite or 'attack' you by scrabbling with their front paws.

Rabbits are lagomorphs and that means that their teeth are constantly growing. They require plenty of hard food to chew to keep their teeth worn down. Complete rabbit dry foods are good, but should not be the sole diet.

Rabbits should have good hay and fresh water available all the time. Very small amounts of cabbage or carrot can be fed as treats.

Any new food should be introduced slowly and not fed to excess as it may cause diarrhoea until the rabbit is used to it. This especially refers to young rabbits that have either just left their mother or their litter brothers and sisters, as this is a traumatic time for them anyway.

Additional wood, or branches from apple or pear trees or proprietary nibbling treats are useful to wear the teeth down. If the teeth get overgrown they can be cut or removed by operation by a veterinary surgeon.

NOTE: If your rabbit does suffer from diarrhoea, feed it strawberry leaves. NEVER feed a rabbit lettuce.

Accommodation

Unless they are (same sex) litter mates, or a neutered buck with a doe, rabbits are best kept singly. If kept in a hutch, the hutch must be at least 4ft long and 18" deep and have a private nest compartment. If the hutch is outdoors it should be adequately felted to prevent draughts and dampness. It should be sheltered, and ideally placed in a garden shed over winter. The bedding material should be absorbent e.g. pet bedding*, straw or hay. The seeds should be shaken out of the hay and straw to prevent them getting in the rabbits eyes.

Although woodshavings are the popular choice for pet shops and breeders, we either use a paper based cat litter such as biocatolet or carefresh supreme. In our experience, in some cases, woodshavings / sawdust can cause respiratory problems which can kill.

Visit Our Rabbit Cages pet store @ www.rabbit-cages.net

General Care

Long coated rabbits must be groomed daily. All rabbits should have their teeth and nails checked for overgrowth. Some rabbits get soiled around the vent (bottom) area, this is very often caused by the rabbit being overweight, (one large handful of food is sufficient for an average size rabbit).

This is particularly dangerous in summer as flies will lay their eggs in the coat leading to maggot infestation (flystrike), which can be FATAL. All rabbits should be checked daily in the summer and kept very clean.

Vaccination is available for two fatal diseases, myxomatosis and VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease). Vaccinations can be done from 8 weeks of age and are boosted annually. In a high risk area (e.g. with wild rabbits around) boosters should be every six months. Your vet will be able to advise you on this.

Vaccination is important, it is the only way to protect your rabbit and prevent further spread of disease. VHD symptoms vary from loss of appetite to sudden death. Rabbits develop breathing difficulties, convulsions, in coordination, and often a bloodstained nasal discharge. It is very distressing and happens very quickly. All breeds of rabbit can be affected including pet, show and wild rabbits. This year VHD has killed 10 times more rabbits than it did last year. The virus is present in the saliva and nasal secretions of rabbits, and it can be spread by direct contact with rabbits or carried on people, clothing, objects, birds and other animals.

Myxomatosis is spread by fleas and mosquitoes and is a horrible disease. Symptoms include puffy fluid swellings around the head and face. 'Sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips and ears and genitalia. It is fatal. As well as vaccination, flea control is important in prevention.

Wild Food and Feeding for Rabbits.

Wild Plants: Feed
Avens or Geum, Argrimony, Bramble, Bindweed, Bishop's Weed or Ground Elder, Burnet, Butterbur, Cow Parsnip or Hogweed, Clovers, Coltsfoot, Convolvulus, Chickweed, Goosegrass, Crosewort or Maywort, Dandelion, Dock (before seeding), Groundsell, Goutweed, Hawkweed, Heather, Hedgeparsley, Knapweed, Knotgrass, Lucerne, Mallow, Mustard, Nipplewort, Plaintain, Sea Spinach, Shepards Purse, Sour Dock or Sorrel, Thistles, Trefoil, Vetches or Tares, Watercress, Yarrow.

Wild Plants: Avoid
Arum, Anemone, Black Nightshade, Bluebells, Buttercup, Bryony, Colchicums, (Meadow Saffron), Corn Cockle, Celandine, Deadly Nightshade, Docks (in seed), Dog Mercurry, Figwort, Foxglove, Iris, Fools Parsley, Ground Ivy, Hemlock, Henbane, Poppies, Scarlet Pimpernal, Spurges, Toadflax, Travellers Joy.

Cultivated Vegetables and Roots: Feed
Artichokes, Jerusalem (Leaves and Roots), Beetroot, Brussels Sprouts, Beans and Haulms (Not Scarlet Runners), Chicory, Cauliflower, Carrots, Cabbage, Celery, Clover, Dandelion, Fodder Beet, Horse Radish, Kale's, Kohl-Rabi, Lucerne, Maize Mangolds (after 25th December), Parsley, Parsnips, Strawberry, Swedes, Sainfoin, Savoys, Spinich, Sunflowers.

Cultivated Vegetables and Roots: Avoid
Mangold Tops, Mangold Roots (before December), Tomato Leaves, Potato Tops, Lettuce.
Flowers: Feed, Asters, Borage, Calendula, Centaurea, Daisies, Galega, Geranium, Geum, Helenium, Hollyhock, Honesty, Lupins (not seeds), Marguerites, Marigolds, Michaelmas Daisies, Nasturtium, Rose, Stocks, Sunflowers, Wallflowers.

Flowers: Avoid
Acacia, Aconite, Antirrhinum, Arum, Anemone, Columbine, Daffodil, Dahlia, Delphinium, Feverfew, Gyposphilla, Helleborus, Hyacinth, Iris, Larkspur, Lilly of the Valley, Linarias, Lobelia, Love-in-a-mist, Monkswood, Poppies, Snowdrop, Tulips.

Trees and Shrubs: Feed
Practically all Deciduous trees,(Except very fresh growth of young trees and twigs), Blackberry, Rose, Raspberry Canes and Winter Ivy.

Trees and Shrubs: Avoid
Most Evergreen trees and Shrubs, Acacia, Box Elder, Beech Mast, Gorse Seeds, Laburnam, Oak, Snowberry, Plum, Ivy, (Except in Winter when no berries or flowers).

NOTE: BEFORE FEEDING YOUR RABBITS WITH ANY WILD PLANTS MAKE SURE THEY HAVE NOT BEEN CONTAMINATED BY PESTICIDES.

©This information sheet was donated by CavyRescue, the UK’s first and only dedicated small mammal rescue charity. Originally set up to rescue guinea pigs, rabbit and hamsters, they found that there were few other rescues who took in rats and are now also sometimes known as 'recycle a rodent'. They are highly dependent on donations, if you would like to help please visit www.cavyrescue.co.uk

Caring For Your First Rabbit

Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets for first time pet owners. In fact, many domestic rabbits are meant to be kept indoors. Domestic rabbits are not like their wild cousins; they do not fair well in extreme temperatures. They also do not react well to predators. Domestic rabbits are very attentive and affectionate. They care about their owners and are very social. Domestic rabbits are meant to be played with and loved by the entire family.

The choice of whether you keep your rabbit in a cage or allow him to roam freely is up to you. If you do opt to keep your rabbit in a cage, you should make sure that he is allowed to get out of his cage every day so he can exercise. When purchasing a cage for your rabbit, you should take into account how big he will be when he is mature and purchase a cage that is five times that size. Your rabbit's cage should be big enough for him to sit up on his hind legs. You should also put cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood in the bottom of wire cages to protect his paws from the wire.

If you decide to allow your pet to roam, make sure that your home is safe. Rabbits like to chew and they don't know the difference between an electrical cord and a stick. Most rabbit owners that do allow their pets to roam limit their wandering to specific areas.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only eat fruits, vegetables and grasses in the wild. You should keep a bowl of commercial rabbit food in your pets eating area. However, you should feed your rabbit hay every day, as well. Many rabbit owners also feed their pets a few fruits and vegetables, such as a carrot or a bit of apple. Always provide something hard and crunchy for your rabbit to gnaw on. This will keep his teeth from becoming overgrown. You should also make sure your rabbit has access to water and that it is changed every day.

Many domesticated rabbits become accustomed to be handled and even enjoy being held. However, you should always use both hands when picking up your rabbit. Place one hand under his chest and the other around his rump. You should never lift your rabbit by his ears.

Rabbits keep themselves clean. However, you should brush rabbits that have long hair regularly to keep their fur from matting. You should trim your rabbit's nails every six weeks. Also, check your bunny's teeth when you trim his nails to be sure they are wearing evenly. If a rabbit's teeth don't meet evenly, they may grow too long and curl, preventing him from eating. If his teeth are growing too long, you will need to ask your vet to trim them on a regular basis.

Rabbits do not need to go to the vet for vaccinations, but will benefit from a yearly checkup, just like any other pet. You should also take your rabbit to the vet if he has hair loss, loss of appetite, a runny nose, has difficulty breathing or has any swelling or lumps on his body.

we are selling various indoor rabbit cages online, indoor bunny rabbit cage, outdoor rabbit hutches and other small animal play pens